9 September 2006
It's that whole toe-complexion thing

Forget these sandals, if you can. What catches my eye is this statement:

Nicole Richie has become the new face of Jimmy Choo, the hot Hollywood shoemaker.

Are shoemakers looking for faces now?

Then again, I don't suppose anyone is going to write "Nicole Richie has become the new foot of Jimmy Choo."

Permalink to this item (posted at 1:25 PM)
17 October 2006
More than size matters

Mary Stella's thinking cap obviously fits well:

I'm not saying that this will earn you anywhere near what the creators of YouTube raked in from Google, but I think it's an idea that could catch on and revolutionize clothing shopping on the Internet.

We need a program that will work with a company's website and a web cam to visually scan consumers top to bottom, front, back and both sides. That information will then be processed by the software so that the clothing companies know the exact size of each garment to fit and flatter each individual consumer.

Better yet, let's add a feature so that a picture pops up of the customer wearing the garments instead of the models. Ohhh, that would multiply sales 100 times!

Simply brilliant, right? Remember, I said it here first, so I deserve a cut of anything you make once you develop the software and sell the service to companies. We'll both be blissfully happy with the profits, I'm sure.

I like. It might be easier, if more cumbersome, to tie this to newer, presumably higher-tech cams, which you could borrow from the store or purchase outright. (If this is as big a hit as I think it would be, the price would come down rather quickly.) This might simplify the software development, and as a fringe benefit, given the sheer sophistication of the cam, you'd hear from some disgruntled fanboys: "You built a tricorder, and you're using it to order clothing?"

Which, if you think about it, is almost enough justification in itself.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:08 AM)
27 October 2006
Maybe you wear them inside out

Are you ready for size -2? No, that's not a typo:

[T]here are some people for whom size 0 is too big, and it's not just those banned runway models and Rachel Zoe's clients. For these people, designers like Nicole Miller will introduce negative sizes (that's not what they're really called, but what is smaller than 0?!?!) that have waistlines the circumference of "a soccer ball."

An official match ball is 68-70 cm around: 27 to 28 inches. This is a size 6, maybe an 8. A size 0 woman measures something like 31-23-33, so a -2 would have about a 22-inch waistline. This is below volleyball size.

(Geometric digression: A standard 45-rpm record is 7 inches in diameter, just under 22 inches in circumference. If you need to imagine a minus-two woman, pick up a 45 and hold it by the edges.)

I was tempted to attribute this phenomenon to "vanity sizing," but according to Kathleen Fasanella, it doesn't really exist:

[G]iven manufacturers are sized differently, [and] so are labels within a given design house. The reason is simple. Ralph Lauren produces a range of products across different labels that appeal to different types of consumers. The products that are intended for the vanity market — those who buy a tee-shirt at resort for example — are sized very differently from their core designer customer. The customer with more discretionary income is thinner than the former so if it were true that Ralph Lauren (for example; I have no bone to pick with him) sized for vanity then Ralph's core customer wouldn't be able to find a size to fit them. And you know that's not true.

This is not to say that vanity doesn't play a role. Just ask Dave Barry:

Here's how you could get rich: Start a women's clothing store called ''SIZE 2,'' in which all garments, including those that were originally intended to be restaurant awnings, had labels with the words ''SIZE 2.'' I bet you'd sell clothes like crazy.

Your zeroes and minus-twos? Why, yes, they will have fries with that.

(Via Neil Kramer, who has more Infiniti than I do.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 2:13 PM)
3 November 2006
You're too young to have an Inner Slut

There's a scene in Bill Forsyth's Gregory's Girl that's always stuck with me. It appears that someone has it bad for Gregory's younger sister; in fact, the someone in question says admiringly, "She's only ten, but she has the body of a woman of thirteen."

At the time, this seemed innocent and goofy. Twenty-five years later, it sounds like a warning shot: somewhere between then and now it became de rigueur to turn tween girls into oversexed Bratz. A week doesn't go by that I don't get some Googler looking for risqué photos — even fake risqué photos — of twelve-year-old Dakota Fanning. One could argue, I suppose, that I don't deal well with female sexuality of any sort, and maybe that's even true, but I can't see any upside to having middle-school students looking like tired call girls.

Enter Up Stream Girl, which aims to be the anti-Abercrombie and/or Fitch:

We founded Up Stream Girl with a desire to provide fashion apparel with a more feminine, classic look for girls, teens and juniors. The kind of clothes we had when we were younger, but with today's fashion — the fashion which makes these clothes great! Fun and cool colors, new fabrics and great styles. We call these "Today’s Classics".

We know today's girls can be demanding when it comes to the clothes they wear. And they should be. They want clothes that make them look and feel both beautiful and feminine. We also know that our girls face challenges that we never had when we were their age. The clothes a girl wears says a lot about her. The confidence she shows, her beauty, her character, and her belief in herself, can all be inspired by the clothes she wears.

And surely there has to be a middle ground between the burqa and the "Who needs brains when I've got these?" T-shirts.

(Discovered here.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:21 AM)
15 November 2006
A needle pulling thread

You hear the word "sweatshop," you automatically think of a humongous room full of miserable people sewing away, and you just know they'd dream about a place like this:

  • Eight-hour work days
  • Seamstresses earn two to three times as much as teachers and policemen
  • Child labor is unheard of
  • All overtime is paid
  • Free medical care on site
  • Three months paid maternity leave
  • Employers must give breast-feeding mothers unimpeded access to their infants
  • Forty-three paid vacation days per year

If only there were such a place ... oh, wait ... there is.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:36 AM)
6 February 2007
Proving e-commerce still has life

endless.com adA car dealer around these parts used to bray about all the free stuff they threw in with the deal, with the tagline "What could be better than free?" I'd like to think this would have shut him up. (Endless.com is an Amazon.com offshoot that deals in shoes and handbags, but not even Amazon Prime is offering a shipping deal this remarkable. It expires on the 28th of February. I have been so far unable to identify this specific shoe; I spotted this ad on Go Fug Yourself.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:51 AM)
8 February 2007
Hey, maybe it is rocket science

HBN Shoe, LLC is the manufacturer of something called Insolia, which pulls off this remarkable feat:

Insolia products fundamentally change the inside of high heel shoes, shifting weight off the ball of the foot back to the heel. It actually feels like you are wearing much lower heels which is a true comfort factor for many women. This weight shift improves body alignment and balance dramatically reducing leg and lower back fatigue while reducing pressure on the ball of the foot. Thanks to Insolia products, women no longer have to sacrifice style for comfort or comfort for style.

The developers of Insolia included podiatrist Howard J. Dananberg, founder of HBN, and Brian Hughes, an actual MIT rocket scientist.

It's stuff like this that gives me hope for the future.

Permalink to this item (posted at 2:11 PM)
17 February 2007
Size matters

Jacqueline Passey declares that yes, there is such a thing as vanity sizing:

10 years ago I had a 24 inch waist and 36 inch hips and I wore a size 6. Today I have a 26 inch waist and 38 inch hips and size 6 is too big.

Ten years ago she was 18 (I think); do teenagers get their own size scale? Not that anyone eighteen thinks (s)he's a teenager or anything.

Maybe it's time for something other than numbers. Example: In the early 1950s, hosiery manufacturers were trying to distinguish among a line of three or four sizes without using accusative terms like, say, "large." I shuffled through some advertising pieces from this period and happened upon a 1953 ad from Wayne Knitting Mills, who sold stockings under the Belle-Sharmeer brand. They offered four sizes, as follows:

BREV (purple edge) for slender or small legs. Sizes 8 to 10½

MODITE (green edge) for average size legs. Sizes 8½ to 11

DUCHESS (red edge) for tall, larger legs. Sizes 9½ to 11½

CLASSIC (plain edge) for largest legs. Sizes 9½ to 11½

Now obviously there's more description necessary for a dress than for a pair of nylons, but I, for one, would like to be able to go into the store and ask for shirts in, say, "Duff Man," rather than ask where all the 4X Talls are hiding.

Permalink to this item (posted at 12:06 PM)
18 February 2007
Pattern analysis

It was almost 50 degrees yesterday when I hit the supermarket, historically a below-average temperature for this date, but a veritable heat wave compared to what February has been dealing us so far, so I wasn't too surprised to catch a glimpse of a woman in fishnets over by — well, it wasn't the seafood counter, so I suppose it doesn't matter where she was.

More than once I've mentioned that I just don't get fishnets:

I have been fortunate enough over the years to have met a small number of women with incredible legs, and not once have I found myself thinking, "Gee, I wonder what she'd look like if you overlaid a pattern of polygons upon her."

And I was perhaps unduly pleased to hear a similar sentiment from someone who actually has worn them:

What do you think it is about fishnets that made someone decide that they are sexy in the first place? Is it the fact that you can see skin through them? Because surely men weren't thinking, "You know, I'm tired of running my hands over sleek, smooth, unblemished thighs. I sure would prefer some that have some texture — almost like cellulite, but more ordered, like graph paper but in 3-D, or like the weave of a wicker chair. Is there some way that we could create this effect temporarily?" Because right now the back of my thighs makes me look like I've been hanging out on a lanai, and in less of a Spring-Break-Cancun kind of way than a Golden Girls kind of way.

Well, that Blanche Devereaux, she could ... um, never mind.

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:52 AM)
22 February 2007
Changing Lanes

Not being a regular Lane Bryant customer myself, for reasons I presumably need not explain, I hadn't noticed this, but it showed up in a newsletter I get: the LB catalog is being retitled "Woman Within."

I had no idea why, so I went hunting, and turned up this:

New York-based Redcats USA, the U.S. division of French conglomerate Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR), for several years had a licensing agreement to use the Lane Bryant Catalog name. But the rights to Lane Bryant revert back to Charming Shoppes, the Bensalem, PA-based retailer that has owned and operated the Lane Bryant stores since 2001, in October 2007.

Redcats USA chairman/CEO Eric Faintreny says that the name change for Lane Bryant had been thoroughly discussed during the past 18 months. "The choice of Woman Within gives us a name that's ours alone," he says. "It's our own brand. As they say in France, it's a necessary, but useful pain. We had to move away from the Lane Bryant name in 2007, and we thought this name was extremely suitable for our customers." From now on, Faintreny notes, there won't be any confusion between Woman Within and Lane Bryant. Plus, the new name will "refresh the brand," he says.

Not to mention the fact that the catalog and the stores will be under the same management once more. Similarly, Redcats' Lerner catalog is being supplanted by something called Metrostyle, and the Lerner name goes back to New York & Co., the retailer formerly known as Lerner.

Redcats also operates a catalog called KingSize, sort of a Lane Bryant for men, where I do buy stuff, which explains why I got this notification.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:42 PM)
28 February 2007
Paging Charles Brannock

Do one's clodhoppers eventually become less clodlike? Possibly:

Is it common to go down in shoe size as you plow through your 30s?

For years, I've taken a US size 9 or 9.5 for my footwear. But a few weeks ago, while getting fitted for a new pair of dress shoes, I got measured with a size 8.

I figured that was an aberration attributable to that particular shoemaker. But in the last couple of days, I bought another two pairs of shoes — another for dress, and a pair of long-overdue snow/outdoor boots — and sure enough, I wound up with size 8 both times.

I wore a 13 from age 17 to about 40; for some inscrutable reason — middle-aged spread, maybe? — I now wear a 14.

I don't think the sizes have changed over the years, but I can explain neither my growth nor his shrinkage.

(Mr Brannock, should you be curious, invented this thing.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:07 AM)
22 March 2007
Now where did these come from?

An urgent plea from Donna:

Take a note, hosiery manufacturers! Think about taking a class in branding. It is important that you put a tag in the pantyhose themselves that gives the name of the brand. This way, at the end of the day, when I see that the pair I am wearing have no runs or holes and I can wash them and wear again, I can check the tag and make a note to buy more pairs like it. As it is now, I desperately try to remember the brand, fail, and end up buying whatever brand is on sale at CVS that day.

Don't think of it as an extra three cents per pair; think of it as a contribution to urban aesthetics.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:07 PM)
26 March 2007
If the shoe fits, it's unsightly

Angi describes the creative process for one particular pair:

Design a shoe that will A) look slightly better than house-slippers and B) cost more than $100.

Parameters set, and apparently met. On the other hand (on the other foot?), they can't possibly be as bad as these.

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:46 AM)
20 April 2007
The pea is fine, but God help the pod

Caterina Fake on maternity wear:

Someone said to me once that when you're speaking in a language that is not your native language, you lose about 50-75% of your personality. The same thing could be said for maternity clothes. Talk about drab. And since you don't really want to spend a lot of money on clothes you're only going to wear for three months, you're not only drab, you're wearing the same thing over and over again.

There are workarounds, as it were, but:

I've taken to wearing flashy necklaces to offset the sad L.L. Beanness of my new wardrobe. And then a friend nodded knowingly and said: "I had a friend who wore big, noticeable necklaces when she was pregnant. She wanted to draw attention to her new, impressive boobs." This made me rethink my necklace strategy.

I'd say something about "How bad can it be for 90 days?" but I'm almost certain someone would come back with "Try passing a soccer ball through your [fill in name of body part] and see how you like it."

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:04 AM)
20 May 2007
Instant flats

Well, sort of:

CAMiLEON Heels have a patented adjustable-height technology that's incorporated into the heel of every shoe. Design features of the heel and the overall shoe maximize ease of transition from high-to-low heel positions without removing the shoe from your foot, removing any parts or use of any special tools. You can transition from high-to-low positions within seconds, as often as desired.

The high heel is 3¼ inches; in the lower position, the heel is 1½ inches. And the tucked-away portion is inconspicuous except to someone viewing from underneath, something you'd presumably discourage anyway. Here's how it's done.

The line is carried in a few Northeastern stores and at Zappos.com; you can also buy directly from the manufacturer. They're pricey — $300 or so — but think of it as getting two pair for the price (and in the space) of one.

Permalink to this item (posted at 5:04 PM)
24 May 2007
Redefining "off the rack"

It seems they're using an entirely different rack: the medieval torture device. Rachel Lucas explains:

[W]hat kind of freaks do jeans-makers think we are? I'm serious. What's the average height of American women? I just Googled it, and according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services, the average American woman is 5' 3.7". Okay. I'm exactly 5'4" and I already told you my weight. ["Less than 120."] Hence I think it's safe to say I'm within the range of normal, on the puny side. And yet, 99% of the jeans that "fit" me extend beyond my toes. I mean, really — is your average size-sixer REALLY almost six feet tall?

A commenter of the male persuasion attempts to explain:

Girl, those jeans are long because you're supposed [to] wear them with 4-inch stilettos. Don't ask why a man knows this. ;o)

Is that all there is to it, or is something more going on?

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:52 AM)
26 May 2007
Mere gazing is insufficient

Fashion plate and part-time metaphysician Jessica Simpson has affixed her name to a fragrance for one's navel.

Immediate reaction: Shouldn't there be different applicators for innies and outies?

And what's to stop her from marketing, say, strawberry-flavored toe jam?

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:27 AM)
30 May 2007
Everything in balance, sort of

Matters of size, and other matters:

While perusing the shelves, I noted that the children's sizes were considerably cheaper than the adult sizes. Upon further inspection, I picked out a youth size large and hold it up to my chest and note that "Hey! This expensive piece of cotton that must be fresh from the gin, actually might fit me." And lo, it did fit in a way that doesn't show off a muffin top or compress my two boobs into a uniboob. I was pleased. Not only because I wear a youth size large, as I already do some shopping in the junior's section, but also because I pulled the proverbial wool over the eyes of the Black Dog establishment and saved myself a whopping $4.50; which I then used to purchase my third clam plate. The latter was to celebrate that I could eat three clam plates in 72 hours and still fit into child size clothing.

I'm not exactly what one would call fat or obese, unless this was the seventh grade again, and then I'd be called far worse. But I'm not exactly a size 2 or a size 8 for that matter. As far as I'm concerned, I can easily run a 5K and slip into a dress from Anthropologie or Forever 21, so really, why worry? Especially since the Great Ephedra Disaster of 2005, I'm perfectly content in eating and working out and keeping the two at some sort of equilibrium so that I don't feel like I might be in desperate need of stomach stapling each and every time I have a filet o fish.

This is so sensible it's almost scary. I fear, though, that she would object strenuously were she to find out that someone had described her as "sensible."

Permalink to this item (posted at 3:05 PM)
1 June 2007
That doo-doo that you do so well

And even more cosmetic crap:

While millions of women are snapping up age-defying skin creams, the latest miracle cure for a sagging face has just arrived — nightingale poo.

The bird droppings, applied in a 90-minute facial, are packed with an enzyme called guanine — an amino acid which heals the skin, experts claim.

The treatment has already been used by Japanese geishas to remove make-up and leave the skin silky smooth, while monks polish their shaved heads with the droppings.

Do me a favor: just don't call it a "fecial."

(Via Scribal Terror.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:48 AM)
6 June 2007
Every pair a paradox

Note to the mythical Average Guy: You were wondering how it is that you get by with three pairs of shoes while your girlfriend has sixty-seven and says she needs more. It's not necessarily a desire to dominate the closet in some domestic version of Risk; nor is it the elevation of the mundane to the status of an icon. (Well, it could be, if everything she has came from Payless except for those CFM pumps she saw on Zappos and bought with your credit card.)

What is closer to the mark, I believe, is that while you wear those old Chuck Taylors as close to 24/7 as possible, she goes through several different pairs, styles even, in a single day. Rachel corroborates:

I love taking off my shoes as much as I love shoes. I do it unconsciously: At home, at work, or at the movies. My feet, apparently, have a need to be free. You know how some people are always looking for their keys? Or their glasses? I'm always looking for my shoes. The first thing I do when I get home is take off my shoes and put on a pair of slippers or flip flops. (If my shoes are particularly binding, I might take them off in the car. I tend to have at least one or two pairs of shoes in my car at any given time.) Later, I'll unconsciously slip out of my flip flops, get up to perform some stupid task, notice that my feet are unshod and go into my closet for another pair. This can go on for hours until at the end of the night I look around and see that I've left a trail of shoes around the house, some of them kicked off in mid-stride as though the person wearing them had suddenly been vaporized while heading to the kitchen.

She doesn't say whether she drives barefoot — which, incidentally, is not actually illegal unless one is barefoot up to one's chin, as it were — but I wouldn't be the least bit surprised.

This is, I might add, a major reason why you need not fear the succubus: at some point she'll change shoes, and there's your opportunity to escape.

Addendum: This obsession, if obsession it be, does not affect Syaffolee.

Permalink to this item (posted at 2:46 PM)
10 June 2007
Sort of hosed

Open-toe stockingsI am a big fan of both shortish skirts and strappy sandals, as I have probably mentioned entirely too often, but I don't quite get this open-at-the-toe hosiery, despite its construction of some "revolutionary Japanese yarn" that's supposed to keep you cool, thereby eliminating the major objection to hosiery in the summertime. A commenter noted: "The end of the stocking never coincides with the shape of your shoe, so you end up looking even dorkier than before," which seems logical to me. Maybe this would make more sense if it were cut off around the ankle, if you happened to own a pair of ankle-strap shoes. Moreover, if we're to believe some of the advertising these days, there are lots of women who will willingly put a lot of leg on display, but please, please don't look at their feet; they're never, ever going to consider wearing something like this. (And a not-so-perfunctory informal survey during this weekend's wandering about between film screenings didn't turn up a single person who really ought to wear it.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:36 AM)
11 June 2007
To everything there is a season

Attila Girl contemplates the toeless hose I brought up yesterday, and she doesn't buy the premise:

Look: stockings are one thing, and are fine between consenting adults. But panty hose of any type are not sexy. They are meant for one purpose, and one purpose only: to attenuate one's lack of tan/unevenness of skin tone.

If the environment you are going into is so casual that you can wave your bare toes around, you have no business [wearing] panty hose of any sort.

Or, if the environment requires panty hose, you shouldn't be showing off your lovely pedicure.

Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, I suspect, understands this premise: the wire services have carried zillions of photos of her in shortish — but not too shortish — dresses, but you never, ever see her in sandals. Nor is this a Republican phenomenon; for all I know, Nancy Pelosi may knock around in Birkenstocks at home, but in her capacity as Speaker, she's conservatively shod.

Permalink to this item (posted at 2:08 PM)
19 June 2007
More instant flats

About a month ago I made some mention of CAMiLEON Heels, which can be an inch and a half high or three and a quarter, depending on how you set them.

Sheila Driving HeelNow comes a driving shoe for women, based on the same idea if not precisely the same technology. Devised on behalf of Sheilas' Wheels, an insurance company in the UK targeting female drivers — they offer, for instance, handbag coverage up to £300 as part of Comprehensive — the Sheila Driving Heel is switchable between heel and flat with the touch of a button. It's being touted, of course, as a safety measure: "It’s astonishing," says Sheilas spokesperson Jacky Brown, "that so many women are putting themselves, their passengers and other drivers at risk by wearing the wrong shoe or no shoe at all whilst behind the wheel. Stilettos, sling-backs and strappy sandals aren’t the sensible choice when it comes to controlling a car." And while driving with no shoes is permissible Stateside and in parts of the UK, for some reason it's illegal in Scotland.

I must admit here that I can't see where this mysterious button is located, and neither can the writer for Autoblog, who also complains that "we waited almost a week for them to send us a pic of the shoes," which pic I have duly appropriated and slightly cropped.

Permalink to this item (posted at 2:14 PM)
22 July 2007
Just when I was getting used to thongs

It's called, um, Backless Lingerie:

Designed by a woman, Backless Lingerie was crafted to enable fashionable girls to wear anything, from low-cut jeans to evening gowns, with class, comfort and confidence that you will not show your thong.

And God forbid anyone should detect a VPL.

(Seen, so to speak, by Wild Bill. Possibly not safe for work.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:55 AM)
25 July 2007
Eventual shortcomings

An informal survey of 2500 women by a British shopping center suggests that after age 28, it's time to toss out the miniskirts.

I am of course distraught at the possibility that someone might actually take this seriously: as Bill Blass is supposed to have said, the legs are generally the last things to go, and I've seen some spectacular stems on fiftysomethings. I continue to believe, however, that every woman has an ideal skirt length, and it's usually not around mid-thigh. (And if it is, you know where to find me.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 5:58 AM)
31 July 2007
Worst. Shoes. Ever.

Worst shoes everWell, maybe not the absolute worst — you might have to go back to Chinese foot-binding days for that — but this pair of whatever the hell they are demands a full flushing with eye bleach. Remember when "cruel shoes" meant "uncomfortable"? These are cruel to the observer. I imagine some wan fellow in the studio, feeling the pressure of a deadline, when suddenly it occurs to him: "I've got it! It's a boot and a flip-flop and a floor wax and a dessert topping!" Then, of course, his head explodes, because there is balance in nature. You can look at the entire outfit if you're so inclined, but trust me: it's not going to help. (There's also a snarky poll at that link.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:46 AM)
1 August 2007
In case of any doubt

Trini got her first shipment from Woot's T-shirt operation, and it's a pretty decent piece of work, executed in 100-percent cotton by the American Apparel guys.

One thing is troubling, though: the fabric-care tag contains the ominous notation "not for use as pants."

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:41 AM)
14 August 2007
The Keds are alright

This, however, is a tad weird: a patent-leather sneaker by Michael Kors.

What's next? Chuck Taylors being upgraded to "Charles"?

(Via Shoewawa.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:09 PM)
23 August 2007
Up to date with the oldest profession

I have to admit, this pitch is unique:

The Aphrodite Project Team is pleased to announce the launch of Platforms, a new line of footwear specifically designed for sex work. Platforms are both an homage to Aphrodite and her prostitute-priestesses as well as a practical tool for the contemporary sex worker. With Platforms, we have created a seamlessly integrated system of shoes and online services. Our shoes use the latest technology to bring sex workers on par with other public workers, whose lives are valued highly because they work in dangerous professions that serve the needs of the community.

Platforms contain integrated audio and video (for getting attention, I suppose), a GPS system, an alarm system, and hidden compartments for stashing cash and condoms and such. What I don't want to know is what happens when she steps in a puddle.

(Via Shoewawa.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:40 PM)
8 September 2007
Such a tease

Christian Louboutin heels worn by Sarah Michelle GellarI have never quite made up my mind about toe cleavage: like its upstairs cousin, it hints at further delights, but I always wonder if maybe she's wearing the wrong size, or wrong style, shoe. This particular shoe is a design by Christian Louboutin, who usually doesn't push the envelope too much, but geez, Chris, if you'd cut this vamp any lower you'd have a sandal, fercryingoutloud. I suppose it would be fairer to see this shoe in context — Shoebunny, from whom I pilfered this thumbnail (!), has more pictures — and I figure that maybe the overall intent is to make legs look longer, not that Sarah Michelle Gellar, who's wearing the shoes in the picture, needs any help in that regard. Ultimately, I suppose, this is more ammunition for the folks who think toe cleavage is some sort of freak show, and I suspect you'll never get Miriam into a pair of these.

Permalink to this item (posted at 12:42 PM)
10 September 2007
The cameras were kept in the fridge

The girls of Go Fug Yourself show up at New York Fashion Week, and something about it seems vaguely familiar:

Just as we ... began eavesdropping, we were ushered to our seats. "PLEASE UNCROSS YOUR LEGS," one of the photographers bellowed when he got a gander at the narrow runway lined with women in imposing shoes. This marks the first time a fashion show began the same way as an appointment with the gynecologist.

We will not entertain the idea that this particular Hasselbladder was trying to stirrup some trouble.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:37 AM)
Remembering Lane Bryant

Now this is fascinating: Fashion-Incubator has scans from old Lane Bryant catalogs, 40 to 50 years ago.

Which, in turn, led me to look up Lane Bryant herself, who was born Lena Himmelstein in Lithuania in 1879 and shipped off to New York in 1895, supporting herself as a seamstress. ("Bryant" was David Bryant, her first husband, whom she married in 1899 and who died shortly after the birth of their child.) Mrs Bryant continued as a dressmaker, and some time after 1904, at the request of a customer, designed a chic maternity dress with an elasticized waist and a pleated skirt, a distinct departure from traditional maternity wear, which no one would ever see because you simply didn't go out of the house while you were expecting. It was an immediate hit.

In 1909, Mrs Bryant remarried, to Albert Malsin, who took over the business end of the Lane Bryant shop while she concentrated on design. New York newspapers, however, would not accept advertising for the store, what with all those evil maternity outfits on display. Eventually one paper did agree to run an ad, and when it appeared, the store was completely sold out within twenty-four hours. A second store had been opened in 1915, in Chicago, but feeling that they could not rely on newspapers, the Malsins opened up a mail-order branch, which by 1917 was bringing in $1 million a year.

This, though, is the story that gets me:

Lane Bryant Malsin was a pioneer in customer relations and corporate philanthropy. At her suggestion, Lane Bryant, Inc. worked with the Red Cross to replace any Lane Bryant customer’s wardrobe that was destroyed in a disaster. In 1947, for example, after a major explosion and fire in Texas City, Texas, the company re-outfitted 58 mail order customers whose homes were destroyed. After World War II, Lane Bryant stores became clothing donation centers to benefit displaced persons in Europe.

This, boys and girls, is how you build customer loyalty.

The catalog excerpts are also instructive, because while they did list sizes, they encouraged you to send in a total of eight different measurements, and if based on those measurements they thought you had ordered the wrong size, they sent you what they thought was the correct size instead.

Mrs Malsin died in 1951; The Limited bought the company in 1982. The original catalog still exists as Woman Within, operated by Brylane/Redcats, and the retail chain (with Web storefront) continues under Charming Shoppes ownership.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:45 PM)
13 September 2007
She's so good with her stiletto

Or so Camilla Morton would have us believe:

Since writing the book How to Walk in High Heels, I have felt duty bound to practise what I preach. In my six-inch stilettos I keep my head held high and my eye on the goal. They are my shot of confidence and secret weapon against any rivals.

Well, of course they're a weapon. They'd better be. Because you certainly aren't going to run away from anyone in those six-inch heels.

There is a downside to living half a foot closer to the clouds, though:

It's true that as a heels devotee, plasters, pedicures, paracetamol and taxis have become an integral part of life. I also have to admit that cobblestones have become the bane of my life. But then, what work of art was achieved without pain, tears and the occasional blister?

I suggest that if you're going to think of yourself as a work of art, you should probably take better care of your canvas.

Then again, I suspect my viewpoint lies along a different axis than hers:

At a recent in-store evening at Browns, beautiful actress Rachel Weisz was wearing such incredible YSL high black patent heels that I didn't notice anything above her ankles.

If I get to the point that I don't notice anything above Rachel Weisz' ankles, either I've been affected by a combination of pesticides and radiation or I've been epoxied to the floor.

(Via Jezebel.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:42 PM)
14 September 2007
Thirty-buck Chuck

Michele doesn't get the "shoe thing":

I own three pairs of shoes: black dress shoes I wear to weddings, funerals and occasionally to work; one pair of brown Converse and one pair of black Converse, which I wear daily.

This is all I wear when I'm not at work and some days, like today, I even wear them to work. I'm not a shoe person. I'm like the opposite of Imelda Marcos. I live in Converse. It's what I've always worn and wearing them makes me feel comfortable and confident and bouncy, all those things your favorite shampoo or dew-scented tampon is supposed to do for you. Or the way grandma's pasta or a bowl of Haagen Daaz makes you feel. Some people have comfort food, I have comfort footwear.

This is not by any means some kind of moral position, you should know:

I'm not trying to disparage you women who love your expensive shoes and handbags; it's just not for me and spending that kind of money on accessories is not something I can understand, perhaps because I've been poor and my mind is regulated to think frugally when spending money. It's why I haven't bought a Wii yet, even though I crave one. It's why I'm right now wearing a sweatshirt I bought four years ago and why we don't have a flat screen tv. I can't bring myself to think outside the poor box.

Still, these are the Chuck Taylor facts:

I have a feeling that even if I were rich and could afford a walk in closet full of shoes, it would be filled with 100 different styles of Converse.

Disclosure: I own eight pairs of shoes, half of them by New Balance.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:37 PM)
17 September 2007
It dances when you won't

At first, I thought it might be something like this:

The principle of generating small amounts of finite improbability by simply hooking the logic circuits of a Bambleweeny 57 sub-meson brain to an atomic vector plotter suspended in a strong Brownian motion producer (say a nice hot cup of tea) were of course well understood, and such generators were often used to break the ice at parties by making all the molecules in the hostess's under-garments simultaneously leap one foot to the left, in accordance with the theory of indeterminacy. Many respectable physicists said that they weren't going to stand for this sort of thing, partly because it was a debasement of science, but mostly because they didn't get invited to those sort of parties.

But sub-meson brains are still in short supply these days, so if you want some imputed clothing movement, you must take other steps. As an example, Calle Rosenqvist's "Beat Dress":

The dress I sew is sewn in 4 layers of cloth. Underneath it all is a very simple jersey-dress design. On that dress there are 10 detachable patches, all equipped with 10 LEDs each (a total of 100 LEDs). From each of these patches there is a wire attached to a battery, which is hidden in a pocket on the very front of the dress. Not only the battery is hidden in this pocket but also a microphone and a small equalizer connected to a small microcomputer (called Arduino). On top on all this there is a nylon cloth and also two layers of see through cloth that helps to spread the light from the LEDs to larger clusters.

Once the microphone picks up sound, things happen:

When music or any sound is detected by the microphone it is being led to the equalizer connected to the computer. If there is a base sound the computer transmits a signal to the battery to send pulses of electricity out to the LEDs in the dress. This obviously lightens the LEDs up. Then in a second or so they softly go of again. So when listening to music the LEDs are pulsing to the rhythm of the music. There is also a small lever attached to the microphone, making it possible to adapt to the loudness of sounds around you. This makes the dress work both where there are low volumes like being at home listening to music or out clubbing where the music is very loud.

And it's a good way to become the center of attention without the nuisance of lingerie migration.

(Via Shiny Shiny.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:50 AM)
23 September 2007
Careful where you put that squirrel

Squirrel pendantI'm sure somebody thinks this 10k gold rodent makes a really cool pendant. (I'm equally sure she doesn't.) The piece is part of the fall 2007 collection of Simon Cardwell's "Cheeky Monkey" label, and it can be had in sterling silver for about half the $500 price of the gold version. Incidentally, both pieces are recycled: the metals were presumably melted down from earlier jewelry and reused. This particular squirrel is the Eurasian Red Squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris), listed as "threatened" by the IUCN: apparently grey squirrels are crowding it out of its habitat. And it's probably better to commemorate the species by wearing its image than by wearing an actual example thereof; the squirrels I see on a regular basis would not take kindly to having lengths of metal tubing routed through their pert little tails.

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:31 AM)
27 September 2007
In case leggings weren't bad enough

Spats are coming back.

At least, someone hopes they are:

[A] provocative new leather accessory that goes over one's shoes with a bendable internal wire structure: The Spat changes the look of a shoe and recreates a contemporary leg line allowing the wearer to morph the shape of The Spat into innumerable desired forms from a soft deconstructed crumple to a rigid fold. Now a unisex accessory, The Spat was originally the de rigueur accoutrement of many a dapper gent, including the likes of Fred Astaire.

Remind me to shine up my walking stick.

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:39 AM)
3 October 2007
Killer heels, indeed

A current exhibition at Paris' Galerie du passage is called "Fetish", involving the photography of David Lynch and the shoe designs of Christian Louboutin.

Of all the footwear on display, the weirdest, at least in terms of lack of functionality, is this pair of heels that you literally cannot walk in: says Louboutin, "They're only made for lying on your back." Well, um, okay. If you say so. Evidently this is beyond my Kink Comprehension Level. Then again, I grew up with Catholic schoolgirls in penny loafers.

(Via Catwalk Queen.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:20 AM)
17 October 2007
Don't tease me, brew

Nikos Floros spent ten years making uncomfortable garments more uncomfortable — in the name of Art, of course. A sample:

Corset made from beer cans

Yes, those are beer tabs in the closure, and the fabric itself is strips cut from former beer cans. The complete collection consists of 14 pieces, which took nearly ten years to assemble. (The matching shoes don't look too awful, but I don't think any of this stuff is wearable — unlike, say, Nicole Moan's ceramic corsets.)

Pertinent quote from the artist:

I wanted to do something with consumable products, because I believe our modern temples today are supermarkets and malls, where you feel you exist, in other words "I consume therefore I exist."

(Via Shoewawa. Submitted to Electric Venom's Bite Me! and Outside the Beltway's Beltway Traffic Jam.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:04 AM)
18 October 2007
The tracks of my tears

Petra Nemcova from here downAnd now, for your dining and dancing pleasure, another Shoebunny special. This is Petra Nemcova sporting a pair of Manolo Blahniks, and they're a bit more, um, substantial than some of the Manolos I've seen: the double ankle straps provide the illusion of heft. The shoes don't perturb me, particularly, but does this herald the return of patterned hosiery? Because if it does, I expect to be greatly perturbed for as long as this fad holds out. I can sort of understand the thinking — if you're not going barelegged, you might as well emphasize the fact that you're not — but it's very hard to pull this off and not look like "Oh, my goodness, there's a supermodel with ivy growing on her," or something even worse. For the time being, I will console myself with the thought that at least they're not fishnets. (And if you wear these, like these, and can demonstrate to my satisfaction that they don't make you look like you just got flung into the briar patch by Brer Fox ... but never mind, let's not go there.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:07 PM)
25 October 2007
Semi-edible footwear

Shoes made of birdseedNot by you or by your significant other, unless you're dating Big Bird: these German-designed flats are actually composed of compressed birdseed, and presumably your feathered friends will drop by to nip at your toes. I don't think I'd wear these while mowing the lawn, and I don't think they'd be particularly useful if your favorite outdoor activity is kicking squirrels in the, um, nuts. (Purely parenthetical note: The working title for the wacked-out Sixties single "I Was Kaiser Bill's Batman," by the pseudonymous Whistling Jack Smith, was "Too Much Birdseed." Obviously some pop Nostradamus anticipated these things.) On the positive side of the ledger, you have to admit, they're not as hideous as Crocs.

(Via Hippyshopper.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:53 AM)
26 October 2007
NASCAR pumps

NASCAR pumps
Very stylish, these shoes, but fiendishly designed: the only direction you'll be able to walk is counterclockwise. (Via Scott Chaffin.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:10 AM)
31 October 2007
Dungeon chic

In the process of reading this Donald Pittenger paean to photographer Alfred Cheney Johnston, I happened across this comment by Moira Breen:

I can remember being annoyed when the [Helmut] Newton-esque aesthetic first infested the glossy fashion magazines I enjoyed looking at: not only for its tediousness (oooh, S&M lite for the booboisie, how edgy) but because it drove out what little remained of prettiness and elegance, which was my only reason for exposing myself to their sales pitch, anyway.

It's been my suspicion that the mags buy into this solely because they think it assures access to the Gods of Couture. Harper's Bazaar has a semi-regular feature called "A Fashionable Life," in which someone on somebody's best-dressed list is photographed and interviewed, definitely in that order, and not once in the years they've run this feature have I ever seen any of its subjects dressed in the Halloween rejects that always seem to show up in the Hottest Styles from [fill in name of place with overestimated reputation for design] feature twenty pages earlier. The good stuff is timeless; the bad stuff, well, it will be replaced by new bad stuff in thirty days or so.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:04 AM)
Veal with a heel

Marc Jacobs bootsShoewawa picked this as their Ugly Shoe of the Week, and it is indeed hideous: "[Marc Jacobs has] taken it upon himself to spit on the very name of poor little calves. Made — literally — from calf hair, this is the designer equivalent of a farmyard petting zoo; and while I'm usually not averse to leather footwear, this pair just about makes me cry." And if the appearance doesn't bring tears, the price tag will: $998.95 at Zappos Couture, which describes them as "fierce and a bit funky." If you say so, Zapp.

Addendum: I showed these (well, the picture anyway) to Trini; she found them to have no redeeming social value.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:33 PM)
3 November 2007
Not exactly wing-tips

MICHAEL Panama Oxford by MIchael KorsFetiche just bought a pair of these, and I figured I'd give the rest of the resident shoe critics a chance to look them over. This oxford is called "Panama," it's by Michael Kors, and I liked the detailing on it, hinting at somewhere between the classic spectator pump and the sort of old-school wing-tip things out-of-touch shlubs like me wear to the Jersey Shore. The crinkly leather is a nice touch: makes it seem a tad less stiff without going too far into the realm of the flexy. You can't see it at this angle, but there's a little hardware logo at the top of the heel, for the benefit of those who simply have to know where these shoes came from. (I used to cringe at such things, but inasmuch as rather a lot of my shoes have large slanted Ns on them, I feel I have no right to complain.) I can't help but think this might be nicer in a slightly lower heel — say, three inches instead of four and a half — but then I'm not the target market for this shoe by any means. Zappos will sell you these in grey, chocolate or black for $132.95.

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:22 AM)
6 November 2007
Pull me sandal straps back, Mack

FitFlopThis is the FitFlop, which is being sold (for $49.95 $49.99) as "a workout in a shoe":

"The FitFlop sandal tones your calves, thighs and glutes with a specially designed midsole that functions like a mini wobbleboard to engage your muscles as you walk."

I assume this is the sort of wobbleboard you don't quite fall off of, and not the wobbleboard you hear in all those wondrous Rolf Harris records. Still, I'd rather deal with these than with any of those horrid sandals with plastic cobblestones they try to sell as instruments of massage: I actually own a pair of such, which is the primary reason why I never buy shoes online anymore.

(Via Shoewawa. And no, I don't know why I seem to be doing so much shoeblogging lately.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:43 AM)
9 November 2007
What's the new Mary Jane?

Isaac Mizrahi for Target Olive Mary JanesIn the process of denying an unhealthy interest in women's shoes, I happened upon this fairly nifty Mary Jane by Isaac Mizrahi for Target, a pair of which Sarah snagged a few days back. Apparently the guys in her office thought they were wonderful, which doesn't sound like any guys in my office, but then most of them are the sort who don't stare at shoes: they look you right in the C-cup every time. Me, I side with Sarah's co-workers: these are pretty spiffy. What's more, the price (thirty bucks) won't make your nose bleed, unlike some of the curious couture items I've mentioned before in this space.

As to said "unhealthy interest," I attribute it to growing up (1) short and (2) depressed: if you keep your head down all the time, sooner or later you're going to notice such things. It falls short of a fetish, however, for the simple reason that it has no role in my sex life. (Come to think of it, I have no role in my sex life.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 12:20 PM)
11 November 2007
Reducing overhead

Target is determined to get your attention, even if they have to use nobody to do it:

Target adds a new dimension to fashion with the Target Model-less Fashion Show, transforming Grand Central Terminal's Vanderbilt Hall into the site of the world's first virtual fashion show. State-of-the-art technology will produce High Definition holograms allowing Target clothes to strut down a virtual runway — models not included. Audiences can expect a theatrical show in which Target clothes and accessories are the stars and the laws of physics no longer apply.

Hey, don't go hating on those laws of physics. Besides, it takes some technotrickery to pull this off:

Powered by hologram innovator Musion Systems Limited, the presentation will employ an illusionary technique that uses Eyeliner™ foil to give two dimensional images the illusion of depth. The installations are recorded, played back and projected in true High Definition giving the holograms unprecedented quality and clarity.

Which, of course, disappears the moment you put it on YouTube:

Still, if nothing else, if I ever find myself with an invisible girlfriend — I should be so lucky — I now know how I want her to dress.

Permalink to this item (posted at 12:50 PM)
12 November 2007
Not exactly Spartacus

Rosabel by CoachThis is "Rosabel," a gladiator sandal from Coach (now apparently retired for the season) that sells for around $150. I honestly don't understand the appeal of these things — they seem kind of bulky to me — though I have to admit, they look pretty nice here on Hayden Panettiere. This is apparently one of those times when I must yield to a higher authority, so Venessa Estrellado of Divavillage.com explains how to work these shoes:

Flat gladiator sandals are just as decorative as high heeled stilettos, and they offer more steady comfort. You can work the sandals as a proxy to dress shoes for an evening wardrobe; just make sure they're attire appropriate looking. [S]hift, baby doll, trapeze and a-line dresses look the best with gladiator sandals.

Possible drawback:

Gladiator sandals are harsh on the feet if you're flat footed or have super conscious of having long feet (even though we think big feet are beautiful!). If that's the case with you, try gladiator inspired heels instead. You'll have the gist of the style, but with footwear that actually works fashionably. But if you're proud of your foot size, then we urge you to sport flat gladiator sandals proudly!

I have no idea what size Hayden Panettiere (isn't this Italian for "Baker" or something?) wears, but since she's on the short side, I have to assume she's probably not being harshed by these shoes.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:08 PM)
17 November 2007
It's certainly diverse

I always found this "Celebrate Diversity" T-shirt amusing, mostly because it hews to the actual definition of the word, as distinguished from the Officially Sanctioned Version that prevails in academia and certain political circles. And besides, I like guns. As one-time Presidential candidate Patrick Layton Paulsen once pointed out, "Who knows when you're walking down the street and you'll spot a moose?"

Or perhaps a pirate, which covers 8.33 percent of this T-shirt sold by Woot for about an hour and a half this morning. This is the graphic thereupon:

Diversity

It's just a matter of time before you see these symbols everywhere, so commit them to memory now.

Permalink to this item (posted at 4:06 PM)
19 November 2007
We used to call these "kicky"

Miu Miu Vernice Pop PumpThis is the Vernice Pop Pump by Miu Miu, not to be confused with the non-Pop Vernice, which is strictly monochrome and open at the toe. The Manolo, he explains it this way:

[B]uried beneath your professional and business-like exterior, lies the softly beating heart of the free-spirited romantic, the sort of girl who would wear these red Miu Miu Vernice Pop Pumps with Harris tweeds and the felt cloche. This look is inappropriate for your office, faintly ridiculous, and somewhat anachronistic, and yet also completely adorable, and likely to attract the admiring gaze of poetic men.

Which, of course, demands their inclusion here, even if Rachel hadn't raved about them:

Maybe it's a defect in my character.... But they speak to me. In fact, they cry out to me.

And sometimes, I suppose, you must heed the call, even if it's collect. (Saks will collect $525 on each pair.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:41 AM)
2 December 2007
What with party season coming up

Diva by Emilio Luca XThis simple but appealing heel is Diva by "Emilio Luca X," which seems to be a store brand of Brantano, a Belgian firm operating stores in the suburbs throughout the United Kingdom. They call this "purple," which might be pushing it a bit, but they also have a pink which is closer to fuchsia. I like the purple better, though: it seems to have greater potential for drama. "You can do anything, but don't step on my non-blue shoes." (Disclosure: I have turned up the brightness slightly on this picture so you can more clearly see the ribbon-y thing across the front.)

This is, incidentally, the very first time I've seen a shoe pitch with the heel height specified in metric: 85 mm, about 3.3 inches. The price from Brantano is £38, about $78 these days.

(Via Shoewawa.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 3:46 PM)
18 December 2007
By jingo, this might work

Carlos Iconic Patent Pump by Carlos SantanaThe Manolo has recognized Rachel's talent and has bestowed upon her one hundred of the American dollars to spend at heels.com on, one may safely assume, heels. But which heels? I have no idea what strikes her particular fancy, and after looking over the available selections, I decided I'd just pick something I liked, and I'll take the heat for them should she find them unacceptable.

Which explains why you're looking at the Carlos Iconic Patent Pump by Carlos Santana (yes, that Carlos Santana), with an interesting faux-crocodile grain, a squared-off toe with vamp to match, and a towering 4¼-inch heel. This color is called "Azul Purple," and, well, we all know what I think of sort-of-purple shoes; you can also get this shoe in black or silver.

Disclosure: I originally went looking for something a bit more open and strappy, but decided that it would be better if I resisted the temptation to title this "Sandals Pa Ti."

Permalink to this item (posted at 10:19 AM)
20 December 2007
Fee, fi, faux, f---!

According to the Humane Society of the United States, some of the fake fur you might find at retail isn't fake at all:

Certain jackets ... with the brand names Burberry, Andrew Marc, Marc New York, Preston & York, Aqua, Ramosport and Adam+Eve were found to be falsely advertised or mislabeled as faux fur or "ecological" fur when in fact they are trimmed with real animal fur.

These brands generally are beyond my budget — usually my choices are between a real poncho and a Sears poncho — but I'm pretty sure that anything fuzzy I own is proudly synthetic. Now leather, that's another matter.

(Via the Consumerist.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 1:38 PM)
25 December 2007
Exposition sous forme de blog

New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art evidently knows me better than I thought:

More than any other art form, fashion is an immediate expression of our Zeitgeist. While painting and sculpture can seem removed from our understanding, fashion is so familiar, so ubiquitous to our experience, that it is tangible, accessible, and open to a wide range of interpretations. Individuals who might avoid publicly commenting on a canvas by Picasso or a bronze by Brancusi readily disclose their thoughts about a gown by Galliano or a mule by Blahnik. Unlike its haughty siblings, fashion — even in its most extreme and avant-garde expression — does not estrange us from the belief in the essential aptness of our judgment.

This is the opening of the first entry to blog.mode: addressing fashion, an online exhibition by the Museum of fashions contemporary and otherwise, actively soliciting reader comments. (The site is set up as a WordPress blog.) One piece will be featured each day. My favorite so far (there are thumbnails of the items to come, but no text as yet) is this silk crepe dress, resplendently red, by Yohji Yamamoto, with a pair of curious curlicues above the bodice, a structure which, says the blog author, "recalls sea anemones in retraction or coral formations." As abstractions go, they're almost, I dare say, Brancusi-like.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:02 PM)
5 January 2008
Bound to perplex

Sandals by ChloeThe pitch for these Chloe sandals at Intermix calls them "bondagesque," presumably a reference to the humongous buckles across the back. I dunno. And I'm still wondering why there's a two-tone heel — and why these two tones? I'd like to think these would look good on someone, but they seem awfully clunky to me, and at $645 that's a couple of bucks each and every time you clunk.

(Via Shoewawa, which is looking for people to coordinate with these shoes.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:15 AM)
8 January 2008
Max Faster

This has to be a hit:

Wouldn't it be cool if makeup worked like temporary tattoos? Just pick one that said "Evening", "First Date", "Work", "Casual"... Slap it on your face, wet the back, and peel off the paper.

It would be nice if you could remove it without taking half your face with it, too.

"Oh, you're always complaining," piped up the Invisible Girlfriend from the corner.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:44 PM)
13 January 2008
Just this side of sleek

Lora by BCBGirlsFetiche decided that the last pair of shoes I put up here had no redeeming social value — truth be told, I didn't think much of them myself — so this time around I decided to post some shoes she actually owns. From the BCBGirls line of BCBG Max Azria, this is "Lora," a higher-than-usual (four inches or so) Mary Jane with a squared-off toe, also available in red. (BCBG, it appears, is an abbreviation for a French idiom: bon chic, bon genre, "good style, good class." And who would know more about French idioms than a Jewish-American designer of Tunisian extraction?) I took one look at these and thought, "Dillard's, one-twenty-five." Actually, Dillard's doesn't list them among the 95 pairs of BCBGirls shoes on their Web site, but $125 seems a tad high; they can be had online from other vendors for $110 or so, and for that matter, Dillard's has all the in-store BCBGirls shoes on sale this week.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:24 PM)
22 January 2008
Are cheap shoes dead?

At least one British observer seems to think so:

[A]nalysts believe women have wised up to the fact that cheap shoes are uncomfortable, unbalanced and liable to disintegrate in the first drop of rain. So though they may buy fewer pairs, in future they are likely to save up for more expensive shoes.

Footwear was worth £4.5bn to retailers last year, the report from Mintel revealed. Its latest study suggests that shopping habits have already begun to change, with a move away from quantity towards quality. One-third of women said that they now pay more for shoes, either for better quality or a particular brand. And just as many women — 8 per cent of those polled — are prepared to splash out on designer shoes as the proportion buying cheap footwear.

Oddly enough, I've addressed this issue myself:

The $19.99 pair of shoes, therefore, is an essential ingredient in the wardrobe. However, if you buy these things on a regular basis, you know there are hidden costs beyond twenty dollars and change. There is no real social stigma attached to them except in the snootiest circles, yet somehow you feel as though you have done a disservice to your feet. And three months later, when the shoes seem to be disintegrating with every step, you know it.

Still, I'm not at the point where I can shrug off a price point like this.

(Via Shoewawa.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:58 AM)
25 January 2008
Manolos on the edge

What we have here is a pair of classic Manolo Blahnik pumps, apparently deployed without a whole lot of concern for their longevity.

Condi wears Manolos

Courtesy of Princess Sparkle Pony, this is the original caption to that wire-service photo:

Picture shows the shoes of U.S. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice as she crosses her legs following her key-note speech at the World Economic Forum (WEF) in the Swiss Alpine resort town of Davos January 23, 2008. Rice offered Iran normal ties if it drops nuclear plans. REUTERS/Stefan Wermuth (SWITZERLAND)

Now I always thought she was partial to Ferragamo. Not that I pay the slightest bit of attention to the Secretary's legs, of course.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:57 AM)
27 January 2008
Shucks and the city

Sarah Jessica Parker from here downDawn Eden, at the beginning of Chapter 10 of her best-seller The Thrill of the Chaste, quotes this noted shoe authority regarding Sex and the City:

[T]he former HBO series did have some impact on popular culture, to the extent that it's had some small but measurable effect on women's shoes, pushing them a notch or two in the direction of sheer frivolity.

Perhaps I spoke too soon, or maybe I have trouble counting notches, because Sarah Jessica Parker, during a New York shoot for the film version of Sex and the City, was spotted wearing these extremely strange boots, possibly clogs with a pituitary problem, footwear for which no one apparently has a kind word. (And no one seems to be able to identify them, either; not even Shoewawa's famed Ugly Shoes list turned up a reference, and I paged through literally scores of boots at Zappos. The things I go through for you people.) Admittedly, it's hard to disagree with Jess Cartner-Morley's assessment of the genre:

[E]very piece I read raving about ankle boots ended with a caveat along the lines of "ankle boots look brilliant on us beautiful people, because they contrast so winningly with our adorable, pipe-cleaner legs, but they look freaking hideous on disgusting size 12 weirdos who need liposuction".

SJP might actually qualify on the "pipe-cleaner legs" bit, and normally I'd forgive her this sort of lapse in judgment — by my reckoning, she's still got some goodwill left over from L.A. Story — but you should see the dress she was wearing at the time: it's like Björk after a transporter accident.

Oh, I must retract: somebody has kind words for these boots. At the Sun, Bizarre columnist (now that's a title) Gordon Smart says:

The Biz secretary told me: "If a fella buys me those shoes I'll marry him no matter who he is."

I despair.

In the absence of information to the contrary, I blame Patricia Field.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:42 PM)
5 February 2008
Single-use shoes

Jane by David's BridalTrini's sister is getting married this summer, and as tradition presumably demands, she's dictated the outfits for the lesser members of the party. These are the shoes specified, "Jane" by David's Bridal, which comes in about eleventy-five different colors or can be dyed to match other stuff in the store. It's a pretty innocuous shoe, but Trini objected on humanitarian grounds: it would be cruel, she said, to make her wear heels, even heels this low, for any length of time, and she doesn't care a fig about any presumed advantages of the configuration. I opined that considering these shoes will likely never be worn again unless they're donated to Goodwill or something, it might not be worth the bother or expense. Bridezilla, so far, will not be moved.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:12 AM)
12 February 2008
Another Choo drops

Lumiere by Jimmy ChooThis is Lumiere by Jimmy Choo, a sandal more conservative than fanciful. (And JC does fanciful pretty well: to see what I mean, take a look at "Lance," worn in a Shoebunny feature by Kylie Minogue.) It's a metric shoe, 100 mm high: for you unreconstructed fans of English measurements, that's 3.9 inches or so. The cut is described as "sharp and modern," which seems fair enough, though that squared-off buckle strikes me as being something of a period piece. As with any Choos, these will cost you dearly: $585, either in this shade or in fuchsia. Inevitably, I find myself wondering what the Lumière brothers would have thought of this shoe. It certainly lets in a fair amount of light.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:22 PM)
21 February 2008
Future fabrics

The old pecking order for fabric, says Lisa Armstrong in Harper's Bazaar (March), is being upset by "moral considerations":

Materials that used to be considered down-market — polyester, for instance — are gaining kudos because they usually don't require dry cleaning (an environmental offender) and, coincidentally, pack like a dream. The ever-pragmatic Alber Elbaz, patron saint of modern elegance, has begun using — shock, horror — polyester at Lanvin because, he claims (not without some irony, as he's lined it with silk organza), it's cheaper than cotton, once the proletarian of all fabrics. Environmentally, polyester may well be cheaper than cotton, which, unless it's grown organically, consumes more than its share of pesticides. For similar reasons, jute, which grows in warm, rainy climates, has acquired a kind of utility chic, along with hemp. When I recently met Lauren Bush, she was wearing a cute little puff-sleeved hemp blouse that she'd made herself the night before and that had the sheen of silk, without the conscience-pricking burden of silkworm cruelty. Now, that's modern.

But the real winner in this particular derby is bamboo:

[It] can grow more than three feet a day, making it about as sustainable as something about to be culled gets, and it produces a lustrous textile that's soft, takes brilliantly to dyes, and is eminently breathable.

Still, there's more to green fashion than the seemingly-obligatory air of smugness:

According to Jo Paoletti, an American Studies professor at the University of Maryland, "In the future, smart clothing that monitors and adjusts to body temperature may help us reduce our need for air-conditioning and heating." That means fashion that is truly seasonless. Which means you may never need to buy anything ever again. But when did need ever come into it?

Me, I'm waiting to see if anyone wears white after Labor Day.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:55 AM)
22 February 2008
Who named this shoe?

ChastityThis low-priced pump, or, as the Brits say, "court shoe," is inexplicably named "Chastity," and it comes in fuchsia (pictured) and bronze. Maybe it's the relatively modest (7.5 cm, just under three inches) heel that inspired the nomenclature, but the upper seems awfully, um, shiny to me, which for some reason seems to suggest something else entirely. Shoewawa approves, but also questions the name: "In fabulous, disco-esque glitter, these ... heels are certainly incongruous with the visions of convents and nuns' habits that 'Chastity' implies." I wouldn't go that far with the analogy, necessarily, but I'm willing to bet that Dawn Eden wouldn't wear these, even at a measly twenty quid. Besides, they're just too pointy: they might be useful for trapping insects in a corner, maybe, but they look like you had to lop off a toe or two to make them fit, in the manner of some of Cinderella's more pathetic relatives, and what's more, you elongate a shoe much beyond this, um, point, and suddenly it's transmogrified from beaux arts to Bozo.

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:58 AM)
25 February 2008
Step up to - huh?

Where's the heel?I know several women who for various reasons won't, or can't, wear heels, and this is not the answer. I mean, it looks like a moderately-competent Photoshop effort instead of a real shoe, but no: it's a platform with no actual heel, designed by Antonio Berardi, and priced to sell at a mere £1800.

The official explanation:

"The shoe has a bigger platform sole which stretches back further than normal and gives support under the arch of the foot. When walking though, you have to put your toe rather than your heel down first and you cannot wear them for very long. They are not dangerous because you would have to lean quite far back before you fell over."

I have to agree: you cannot wear them for very long. Then again, I don't think you could wear them for very long even if they had an actual heel: with the thicker platform, you'd be 5½ inches off the ground.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:05 AM)
29 February 2008
We got our own ghetto

Megan McArdle poses a conundrum:

Suddenly it occurred to me to wonder why clothing for ... er ... the larger man ... is almost always found bundled into "Big and Tall" stores. My father, who is quite slender, doesn't need extra accommodation around the waist; he just needs clothes that are long enough to cover his endless inseam. I wouldn't think there would be much overlap between the customer base.

The even deeper puzzle is why this is only true of men's clothing. The only women's clothes I can think of that are sold jointly to tall women and plus-size women are pantyhose (and I wish they weren't, as I need stockings that are longer, not wider).

Actually, this particular bit of collective ghettoization benefits me, due to my peculiar configuration: included in my 1.83-meter height (five foot twelve, as Tam would say) is a whole lot of torso and not a great deal of leg, so I go for the Tall shirts and merely Big pants. My inseam, God help me, is a meager twenty-eight inches, probably a foot shorter than McArdle's, and she's only two inches taller than I am. Then again, I have almost enough of a waistline to get on the waiting list for acceptance as a Minor Planet. (All right, who's the wise guy who called me an asteroid?) Between Casual Male XL and the King-Size catalog, I can pretty much cover everything that needs to be covered, as it were.

Permalink to this item (posted at 3:21 PM)
2 March 2008
Clunky yet cute

Mini Gorgeous by John Fluevog"Don't you think the world needs more pink/orange/red shoes?" asks Phlegmfatale, and well, it's hard to make a serious judgment call from this angle (damn camera phones anyway), but the color scheme is kinda neat — she also has a pair in "dove gray/periwinkle/oxblood" — and the shape is playful without being completely absurd. It's Gorgeous by John Fluevog, and, well, let the wearer tell the tale:

This is another pair of 3" heels I can stand and walk comfortably in all day long. I highly recommend, if you don't mind a shoe that's a little on the clunky side. I really should pick them up in black myself, while they're still available. I keep waiting for him to do a new run of phosphorescent shoes...

The heel is a bit unconventional-looking, I suppose, but there's a lot to be said for support, and as Fluevog says, this shoe "adds a half inch to your height without looking too chunky," which is something you can't expect from the all-too-ubiquitous platform. And the idea of keeping the design fresh with limited-edition color schemes somehow appeals to my sense of continuity: after all, I once strolled into a New Balance store and requested the most current version of an existing shoe I'd gotten used to.

Permalink to this item (posted at 9:33 AM)
5 March 2008
Nothing died to make these shoes

Desire + Triton by MelissaUnless somebody fell into the machine where they melt down the old shoes into new material, or something like that. This is "Desire + Triton" by Melissa, and it's made from some plastic material called Melflex, which is not your grandmother's PVC by any means:

Melissa Shoes are made from MELFLEX plastic, a patented, hypo-allergenic, recyclable, and extremely flexible PVC. The shoes are totally cruelty free and devoid of animal products. The Brazilian-based company is totally rad in its recycling of 99.9% of factory water and waste, and they also go the distance by recycling overstock styles into next season's collection. Even better? Melissa Shoes employees are paid above average wages and benefits.

I suppose I could argue that 99.9 percent might be technically only partially rad, but I suspect it's far better than the industry average. And since the shoe is "extremely flexible," it's also presumably free of cruelty to your feet — unlike, for instance, this atrocity. The price of $58 is also at least reasonably uncruel.

(Via Popgadget.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:31 PM)
10 March 2008
WWRW?

Suzy by RebaWhich, of course, means "What would Reba wear?" "Reba," of course, is Oklahoma homegrown hottie Reba McIntire, who now has her own line of shoes which presumably represent what she would wear. She's picky, though, and not for the usual reasons: "I've had foot problems all my life," she says, "and [I] have to have certain types of shoes that are very comfortable. Heels can't be too high, and I like lots of cushioning." "Suzy," shown here, is one of eight styles which are being sold exclusively through Dillard's. The upper is a blend of leather and stretch fabric, the lining is pure sock material, and the heel is a lowish 2½ inches. Sixty-nine bucks will buy you Suzy; the priciest shoes in the line are only $79. (If you're curious about Reba's foot problems, well, she suffers from Morton's neuroma, a condition which, when it flares up, is usually dealt with by kicking off one's shoes, which unfortunately isn't always an option.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 1:09 PM)
11 March 2008
The "diabetic dress"

When you're a five-year-old diagnosed with Type 1 (formerly "juvenile") diabetes, schlepping around the little insulin pump is a decided inconvenience, as the big sister (she's 11) of one such five-year-old explains:

They have a little belt with a pack on them that you can wear with skirts and pants, but when you try and wear them with a dress it makes a bulge and it doesn't feel very comfortable and you still have to lift your dress up to give yourself insulin.

What to do? Big sister designs a dress:

It's a dress with a pocket in it that has a flap on it that you stick the tube through the flap and then you twist the tube back onto the patch and then you stick your pump in there without lifting your dress up.

Kailey Caldwell, a straight-A student from Ammon, Idaho, took this idea to the Invention Convention in Boise, where it placed third; she's thinking about applying for a patent. Sister Whitlee just loves it.

(Via Fark.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:05 AM)
16 March 2008
A shoe called Wanda

Wanda Air by Cole HaanThe Manolo has given his endorsement to these shoes, which he describes as "the high heels that are both comfortable and stylish for the daytime wearing," not an inconsiderable set of virtues. You're looking at the Wanda Air Sling by Cole Haan in Ivory Patent — it also comes in black — which incorporates Nike Air technology right inside that three-inch heel, presumably providing some serious cushion. (No licensing issue: Nike, Inc. has owned Cole Haan for the last twenty years.) In specifying "daytime wearing," the Manolo hints that these really aren't shoes for a night on the town, and I'm inclined to agree; however, they look fairly comfy, they're nicely lined, and while they're inevitably pricey — Zappos sells them for $279, and apparently they haven't shown up at Bluefly yet — they don't look like they'll go out of style in the next fifteen minutes either. Crish Zaragoza of Fashion Juice [warning: background music] has pictures of other Cole Haan/Nike Air shoes.

Permalink to this item (posted at 11:21 AM)
21 March 2008
What has fashion ever done for you?

Me, particularly? Not much, since I am (1) a guy (2) without an enormous amount of disposable income. On the other hand, it makes damnably good blogfodder at times.

For instance, I bring you the results of a survey by British retailer Debenhams, which names the push-up bra as the Greatest Fashion Invention Ever. Elsewhere in the Top 20, stilettos claimed the #4 spot, just ahead of the Little Black Dress. I note with no particular dismay that Rudi Gernreich's attempt at a topless swimsuit did not chart.

(Via Dan Collins.)

Permalink to this item (posted at 6:54 AM)
23 March 2008
Holey socks, Batman!

Emilio Cavallini Cut-Out Contrast SocksFashion, like magic, relies on misdirection and illusion: if there's something in the outfit you'd just as soon they didn't see, you carefully rearrange things to draw attention to something else entirely. So far, this is the only justification I've been able to come up with for these Cut-Out Contrast Socks by Emilio Cavallini, which are nominally black but which have a very obvious hole, outlined in white in case you thought the hole wasn't obvious enough. In the illustration they seem to be compensating for nondescript shoes, but, the eccentricities of lad mags notwithstanding, I was under the impression that socks with heels were pretty much a dead issue by 1990. These cost £6, around twelve bucks, so it's not like they're using less fabric and passing the savings on to you.

"It's a bold bold choice for a bold bold girl," says Shoewawa. Preferably a bold bold girl who will remember what she bought, so when she finds these in the bottom of the laundry basket she won't panic and toss them into the dustbin with all the other socks with holes.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:37 PM)
27 March 2008
The thick end of the wedge

Hali by ReportWhat you're looking at is "Hali" by Report, a vaguely retro-looking wedge which, at least in this shade — there are four available — looks like the wearer has been busy kicking daisies. (Given my luck with daisies, I'd kick 'em too.) The upper is real leather, the sole is something else entirely, and the heel is a modest two inches. Zappos sells these for $84.

Erin at A Dress A Day bought them in black, and wound up returning them: "I wanted them to work, badly, but they were too narrow across the ball of the foot, and the last thing you want in a low-cut shoe is overflow." Indeed. And she had one further objection: "Also, I don't like peep-toes where you only see one toe; it feels too 'my talon, let me show you it,' to me." Which leaves "Hali" with one discernible redeeming social value: it's not a Croc.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:51 PM)
31 March 2008
Land snake!

Krinkle by Via SpigaOnce upon a time I made reference to "really insubstantial shoes", and I was probably thinking about something like this at the time. It's "Krinkle" by Via Spiga, in a color called "Taupe Land Snake." Really. There's also a "Copper Land Snake," which sounds even more menacing. As strappy sandals go, these are up there with the strappiest. The upper is embossed leather; the heel (3½ inches) has a metallic appearance. Sara at heelcandy.com gives it thumbs up:

With the absence of an ankle strap even ladies with shorter legs can pull these off! I really like the simple crossing of the straps and the contrasting dull gold and silver. And the heel is definitely going to get some looks (all good of course) with its reflective surface.

The shoe weighs a whole six ounces; Zappos sells the pair for $189, which works out to $252 a pound. Lack of substance doesn't come cheaply.

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:05 PM)
2 April 2008
Hobbes was fond of his Dram

Dram is a sandal for guys, by Reef, and it looks like, well, yet another flip-flop.

Until you notice this:

polyurethane encapsulated canteen in heel with screw cap opens with included exclusive Reef church key / fin key

Yep. You can store three ounces of liquid in the heel. Whether you'd want to drink it after that — well, maybe they can sell it to a drunken fart like René Descartes.

"Dram" sells for $45 at retail.

(Via Shoewawa.)

Disclosure: Reef is a nominal sponsor of this site I run, or at least of the theme it uses.

Permalink to this item (posted at 3:39 PM)
11 April 2008
Still a Croc

Cyprus by CrocsThere are brand extensions, and then there's this: Crocs with a three-inch heel. It's called Cyprus, and it's available in half a dozen plasticky-looking color schemes. "Fashion fused with comfort for the ultimate summer style," they say, and well, I hope it's comfy, because it looks about as fashionable as a Nehru suit, if a smidgen more contemporary. Shoewawa gave it "Ugly Shoe of the Week," a pretty brazen award given the sheer fugliness of some of the shoes they've recently reviewed. Me, I've seen worse, and perhaps so have you.

Permalink to this item (posted at 8:20 PM)
17 April 2008
Hillary: makeover time?

"How should Hillary Clinton dress if she wins?" asks Harper's Bazaar this month, and by way of suggestion, eight designers have furnished pictures of recommended outfits, onto which the magazine has Photoshopped the Senator's head. Some of the recommendations, I suspect, were more serious than others: while a 60-year-old woman could wear this impressionistic dress, she'd almost certainly balk at the ripped fishnets and the torturous-looking shoes. Of the bunch, the most appealing outfit was a Donna Karan high-necked knit with matching bicycle helmet and dark, dark hosiery, but I can't imagine it on a President of the United States. (Well, maybe on Rudy Giuliani some weekend.)

The best advice, I think, came from elsewhere in the magazine. Opines Ashton Kutcher:

I like seeing a female body as much as the next guy, but a midriff on display does not do it for me. By the same token, sexlessness is just that. I call it the Hillary Clinton look. She would be so much more appealing if she just took off the pantsuit, took a lesson from Jackie Kennedy, and found her own Oleg Cassini.

For a while, Oscar de la Renta seemed to be filling that position, but the campaign trail, I suppose, does not lend itself to a regular schedule of fashion consultation. And Robin Givhan sums up the predicament well enough:

We want her to look good, but we also want her to look as if she could kick butt.

Unfortunately for Mrs Clinton, that's been Condi Rice's slot.

Permalink to this item (posted at 5:14 AM)
21 April 2008
From the rarified heights

Alexander McQueen sandalsThe Manolo, he likes these shoes by Alexander McQueen, and even argues that the 4¾-inch heel is not too high. Some of his commenters, they beg to disagree:

The Manolo should sometime try to wear some of the high heels he recommends in his blog. They are beautiful. Beautiful tools of torture.

Or:

Four and three-quarters inches too high? To gaze upon and drool a bit? No, not too high. To actually don upon my feet? Sadly, yes, that is much too high.

Also much too high, perhaps, is the price: Zappos sells these for $994. Then again, if you have (1) tons of money and (2) utterly gorgeous feet, what's a thousand dollars?

Addendum: TJIC notes: "You can buy a pretty darned good lathe, or half a cabinetmaker's tablesaw for that kind of money. Heck, I think I once bought a 50 caliber rifle for about that much."

Permalink to this item (posted at 7:30 PM)
27 April 2008
Tricolors high

Tri-Color pump by Giuseppe ZanottiCan you actually wear these with the traditional Little Black Dress? I'm going to temporize and say "It depends on the accessories," and leave it at that. Style Spy is enthusiastic about this tri-color pump by Giuseppe Zanotti, giving it an emphatic YES! And I like it too. The color scheme is maybe a trifle loud — one of Style Spy's commenters hinted that coloration of this sort would keep you out of reindeer games — but