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Fun, by definition (from the Middle English fonnen, "to act foolishly"), involves a partial suspension of the self, the shedding of your inhibitions, cutting loose some of the weighty ballast of who you were before you took off. But the high-flying Angeleno in search of fun gets blasted out of the sky by antiaircraft fire from two overriding myths — one true, the other utterly false.

The truth: L.A. is a city of cool people. We look, sound and act cool because the weather's terrific, the accent's flat and we're all in the movies (or at the very least, acutely aware of their counterfeit potency). But what price cool? Asked his idea of fun, a well-known film producer and former studio boss confessed that he and his son like to go up to the theme restaurant at LAX and watch the planes. Fearing reprisal from the Cool Gestapo, he was adamant about staying anonymous. In other words, be all that you can be — just don't let the stitches show. Go anywhere west of Needles and south of the Grapevine, and you'll find a logarithmic relationship between coolness and tightness of the sphincter. Fun means messy hair, taking risks and occa